Panama/Costa Arriba de Colon

The culture of Costa Arriba de Colon is derived from its geographical and historical circumstances. During the Spanish colonial period African slaves were imported for hard labor. Many of these slaves escaped and hid in the Panamanian jungles. These escaped slaves became known as cimarrones. .Descendants of the cimarrones are found in the coastal towns of Costa Arriba today.

The descendants of the cimarrones developed traditions influenced by their African heritage . These traditions often mixed Roman Catholic and ancestral African practices. The congos and the diablo activities which take place during Carnaval offer some of the best examples of this fusion of religion and tradition.

Photo by Landis

The congo dancers of Costa Arriba appear on the scene each year on around the 20th of January. Each town has its own congo groups. The congo dancers wear feathered head dresses and costumes representing African animals and motifs. Their unique and exotic dancing is accompanied by beating drums and represents stories of the past.

The diablos, chosen by each community, are wonderfully costumed with elaborate outfits and masks. They "play" during carnaval . On Ash Wednesday the diablos reign comes to an end--they are captured and "baptized" by a member of the community who plays the part of a priest.. It is a spectacle not to be missed. Carnaval is over and the diablos will not reappear until the next year.

Devil masks are on display on the second floor of the Aduana building in Portobelo. They are well worth the visit.

The Black Christ festival, celebrated on October 21 in Portobelo in honor of the Nazareno, the patron of Portobelo, has become a major international tourist event. The fiesta, replete with food booths, bands and atmosphere begins several days before the 21st.

Pilgrims dressed in purple robes flock to Portobelo to approach the Nazareno and make requests of him. Believers bestow gifts so that their requests will be granted. Many make the approach to the church of San Felipe, where the Nazareno is located, on their knees. In the evening the Nazareno is removed from the church and carried through the town in a a religious procession.

The crowds in Portobelo on the 21st are quite large. If you wish to enjoy the flavor of this particular festival and avoid the crowds you might want to go a few days before that date.